Iwaishima, a heart-shaped piece of confetti in the Seto Sea (Japan), is the scene of an anti-nuclear struggle and home to an environmental and societal think-tank. The geographer Philippe Pelletier comes for the 'Dance of Gods', a quadrennial, traditional festival celebrating man's bond with his land and sea - The question is: on the island, and in the world, how do you remain free and independent - and survive?